Xunantunich (pronounced: shoo - NAHN - too - neech), is a testament to times past and in the Mopan and Yucatec Mayan languages means “Maiden of the Rock". Located in Western Belize along the Mopan River, these ancient ruins sit so close to the Guatemala border you can actually see the neighbouring country from a top the ruins.
After paying your admission price, 12.50 USD for foreigners, they give you a wrist band and you’re on your way. Guided and self guided tours are available but we choose to wonder around ourselves. There is a beautiful site map at the entrance, explaining the different parts of the old city known as Xunantunich!
As you climb the stair to the main area you enter into what is called Plaza A-2, an open area perhaps where farmers brought their wares to sell to the inhabitants of the city, thought to have reached 200,000.
The first modern explorations of the site were conducted by Thomas Gann in the mid-1890s. He chose this area to settle in due to his interest in Maya archaeology and the unknown wonders of the indigenous people that occupied the area. Behind this area is Plaza A-3, a smalller courtyard with what appears to have been more of a residence area. It is noteworthy to see in the one picture how the larger stones have been removed systematically leaving behind the smaller less useful stones. This was done in later years when foreign nations wanted to build their Catholic Churches.
The last photo shows the view from this courtyard looking towards El Castillo, the main structure of these ruins and the second highest structure in Belize.
Upon entering Plaza A-1 it’s hard not to notice El Castillo, the large structure staring you in the face. El Castillo is the dominant pyramid at Xunantunich and the structure that defines the entire site. It’s one of the most iconic Maya constructions in Belize.
At roughly 130 feet (40 meters) tall, it is one of the tallest structures in Belize and served as the ceremonial and administrative heart of Xunantunich. Because of its height and location as you climb the stone stairs, all be it sometimes a bit sketchy, you will have sweeping jungle views and the Guatemala border.
It is a multi tiered pyramid with levels and layers each supporting their own hidden rooms. Archeological finds reveal hidden pathways perhaps used for ritual or administrative duties.
One thing I personally loved about this site is the ability to climb almost all the structures and truly appreciate their immense size, a long standing reminder of the skills of the builders.
The west and east sides feature elaborate carved friezes depicting gods, cosmological symbols, and geometric patterns. These are among the best-preserved examples of Maya stucco art in Belize.
Maya artisans built these panels from layered stucco, then carved and molded them into reliefs. Their size and complexity indicate the importance of Xunantunich. Restored during 1991-1997, these friezes reveal details never seen before. No matter what the story that they tell is, the craftsmanship is undeniable.
Visitors can view the friezes from the plaza and from the terraces of El Castillo. Some sections are original, while others are protective replicas placed over the originals to shield them from weathering. Even so, the visible panels convey the grandeur of the original design and remain one of the most photographed features of the site.
Another popular resident of Xunantunich (and most other ruins) is the Belizean Iguana, some large, some small but almost always seen basking in the sun on the warm limestone or scurrying down their home in the ground. These sites are a safe place for these creatures, warm limestone to sunbath, no cars to hit them, no hunting allowed, all is good as they perch everywhere surveying their domain.
Final take —— these ruins are definitely worth a visit. Take time to marvel in their construction, history and resilience to time. And if you aren’t into history enjoy the quiet, the views and the sun as you stroll the plazas of Xunantunich!