by Anne Watcher on Thursday March 20th, 2008 at 10:50am
We headed into San Jose the other day to tour the inside of the National Theater. When we got there they were closed for the entire week due to the holiday this weekend. So on to plan B, explore Mercado Central. We had briefly stopped one day before and had wanted to return anyway. If you visit San Jose and don't explore this market you are really missing out on a lot of fun, culture and a taste of daily Costa Rican life.
As the name suggests it is centrally located between Calle 6 & 8, Aveinda Central & 1 and is easily accessible from bus terminals and downtown hotels. Although not considered large by Central American standards, it is a true maze of sodas, florist shops, dry goods, spices, fresh produce and meats and a couple of souvenirs shops. They are very resourceful when it comes to the use of space. As we were winding through the aisles we noticed that one soda was doing all their cooking on an overhead ramp and then lowering the cooked food down to the staff below. We saw types of fruit here that we had not seen before as well as florist shops with the variety of what we would expect from our's at home, all squeezed into tiny areas. Dried spices, herbs and banana leaves were also readily available. Some areas were so narrow that it was hard to pass by another shopper. Get a few bags in your arms and the task becomes even more tricky. Even though the area is packed to over full capacity, aisles narrow with seemingly dead ends it is possible to make your way through without getting lost. Just relax, enjoy the sights and smells and experience what it's like to be a Tico/Tica!!!
Entrances are at each corner - this one is Aveinda 1 & Calle 6
Buckets of fresh flowers everywhere
Souvenir Shop - prices where good
Vendor with dried herbs - I think Rob startled him, he really was quite nice!
All the accessories to make your floral arrangement perfect!
No lack of fresh cheeses
"Hola Canada" - he hardly had room to move in his small fruit shop
Leather sandals anyone!
If you go away hungry, you can only blame yourself.
As always the ice cream was DELICIOUS!
Leaving out another entrance - Aveinda Central & Calle 8
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by Anne Watcher on Tuesday March 18th, 2008 at 8:16pm
From the first bus excursion we took in Costa Rica it seems that this friendly driver has always had our back. Even though he speaks absolutely no English he guided us to the right spot to get our bus home the first time we went into Alajuela. Because he drives for the company that runs the route we take most frequently - Turrucares-La Garita-Alajuela - we ride his bus about 3-4 times a week. Even when we are not on his bus we have heard him tell other drivers "plaza de futbol, La Garita" (that's our stop) and then point to us, making sure they knew where we wanted off.
He is always in a good mood it seems, smiling, singing and waving or honking the horn at people along the way. We just had to get a picture of him before we leave in two weeks and although he was leaving the stop when Rob asked for a picture, he just smiled and obliged. If there was a prize for best bus driver, he would get our vote!!!
by Anne Watcher on Monday March 17th, 2008 at 9:12pm
Although there may be some who say this story is not entirely true, ask any Costa Rican who their national hero is and they will reply "Juan Santamaria". The statue of him in his battle attire is found in Alajuela, the city of his birth, at Calle 2 and Avienda 3.
A lot is not known about him but he was born of the lower class in Costa Rica and died at a young age during the Battle of Rivas in 1856. Costa Rica gained it's independence years before and doesn't have a history of military action. However this was a period in history when a Southern American, William Walker, was attempting to enslave the whole of Central America for a Southern Confederacy. The Tico army was able to push them out of the Guanacaste Province and Walker and his men took refuge in a wooden fort in Rivas, Nicarauga.
Juan Santamaria, who apparently was the drummer boy, volunteered to set the fort on fire, on the condition that if he died in his attempt his mother would be taken care of. Although he was fatally shot, he was successful in setting the fort on fire, forcing the men out. In November of 1857 a petition for a pension was filed and according to government documents granted to Santamaria's mother. This lends proof as to the authenticity of the story.
In San Jose at the Central Banks Museums, there is a display of artifacts from the battle and Costa Rica's defense against William Walker. A detailed story of Juan Santamaria can be found there. Also an almost identical statue can be found in San Jose in front of Congress. The international airport also bears his name.
Juan Santamaria Statue in Alajuela, CR
Close up view of the statue - notice the torch used to set
the fort on fire in his right hand
by Anne Watcher on Monday March 17th, 2008 at 8:56pm
When Rob and I were making plans to visit the pottery artisans of Guaitel, we realized we would have to take a bus from San Jose to Santa Cruz and then bus out to Guaitel from there. Getting bad directions (twice) to the right bus terminal in San Jose we arrived late in Santa Cruz so decided to explore the town and go the next day.
There is not a lot to Santa Cruz as far as things of interest. It is definitely a rural town but does have a really nice Central Park. Apparently if you plan to visit January is the best month as their huge fiesta is then. They say the town really comes alive during the festival, and in my opinion dies quickly after that.
The bus terminal is quite nice with a small Central Market located there also. We found a nice little restaurant at the terminal called "El Chili Dulce" owned and operated by Edwin, who speaks english. His food was typical Tico, quite good and he was very helpful and informative about the town and surrounding area.
The next morning we had breakfast and planned to head out to Guaitel bright and early. We had read that buses leave for Guaitel every 2 hrs. between 7 and 5 daily. Once again we got some bad info and waited a long time for a bus before finally hiring a taxi.
Santa Cruz is a central hub used by many to reach the beaches of the Guanacaste and Nicoya areas. Buses to Tamarindo and Flamingo left regularly.
Bus Terminal Santa Cruz
Edwin sweeping before opening at 6:30AM
El Chile Dulce
Street in Santa Cruz
Looks can be deceiving - the sign said this was a lawyer's office
Cute House in Santa Cruz
by Anne Watcher on Saturday March 15th, 2008 at 10:59am
The other local artist we visited was the Oven Store. Here we met Susan - who along with her husband Jesus, his brother and other family members - create art in the tradition of their forefathers.
Susan was just doing some last minute clean up when we arrived. Their store and home was very modest with her young daughter inside an open room watching cartoons on a very modern TV.
Susan, who spoke English as well, explained the process and designs to me. She told me about the family artist who had made a particular piece and showing me a photograph.
The igloo shaped oven is used for firing the pottery.
For more information on this business they may be contacted by email: sjchlv_@hotmail.com
